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Whaleback Conservancy Trail

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Leelanau County

Michigan

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          It was a cool morning in June, 2020, and our plan was to go hiking for the day. Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, near Traverse City Michigan has much to see and many places to hike. Upon recommendation of some locals, my kids and I decided to hike the Whaleback Conservancy Trail and the forecast for the day was unfortunately cold and rainy. However, not wanting to waste a day of our vacation, we stuck with the plan and set out to find this trail in the morning as we planned to head further south to the actual Sleeping Bear Dunes in the afternoon. We parked at the trailhead, and it was approximately 58 degrees and already raining so we headed out in our ponchos. The trail here is fairly short, at a little over a mile, but is at the backside of the sand dune so it steadily goes up until you reach the top where it plateaus. This hike will forever stand out in my mind, not for the amazing views once we reached the top as it was misty, foggy, and visibility was minimal, but it was the ethereal feeling of the place. Droplets of rain & mist were on all of the plants and leaves. We saw some fungi, a spider web and grass laying down all around from the gentle weight of the rain, along with a vineyard along the way with fog hanging in the distance. The feeling was so peaceful, it was quiet except for when we reached the top. 

          Once we got to the top of the dune (which you cannot tell is a dune at this point, as we were surrounded by trees), we felt and heard the presence of the wind. It was so powerful, I could physically feel it bouncing off of my body in soft, but forceful waves. This was the wind coming off of Lake Michigan and the trees here helped buffer it quite a bit, but the power of the wind was significant and the beauty of the fog in the trees is something I will never forget. I took a video and will share that at the end of this story. The observation deck was pretty wet, but we stepped up anyway, to see the view of Lake Michigan, as we are familiar with this area and know that you can usually see out across the lake and the water is usually a vibrant turquoise blue, but not on this day! The sky was completely gray and we could see nothing, except for when we looked straight down to where the water was crashing on the beach below us, approximately 300 feet below. The waves were pretty strong but the picture here was just like looking out a small window, it was not really very impressive at all. However, the effects of the wind, rain and fog were profound and enough to impress the slightest person.

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          In 1996, the Leelanau Conservancy raised the money to acquire this land in which the Whaleback Conservancy Trail is located. The area is actually geographically called a ‘moraine’, which is by definition a ‘mass of rocks and sediment carried down and deposited by a glacier’. Visually, the trail got its name because from a distance, it resembles a beached whale and the trail walks along its back. This natural area is not large at approximately 40 acres, and trails that <combined> are only 1.6 miles and are situated within privately owned properties. However, what it lacks in size it makes up for with history and flora not found in any other areas in the Lower Peninsula. Wildflowers that can be found here are trillium, columbine, and sweet woodruff, but the most unique is a large raspberry-like fruit called the thimbleberry, which is usually only seen in the Upper Peninsula. 

          Formed by a glacier approximately 11,000 years ago, Whaleback is actually an oval shape called a ‘drumlin’ which was formed in the same direction as the original flow of ice. Although this area is very wooded and doesn’t currently look like a sand dune, as compared to Sleeping Bear Dunes, the area has tall Hemlocks and hardwoods which have helped protect the dune from erosion. These trees also create a habitat for bald eagles, which can be seen up and down the Lake Michigan shoreline and out over the water. The observation deck is approximately 300 feet above the shoreline and affords a view on a clear day of the Manitou passage (the area between the Manitou Islands and mainland Michigan). According to an online article I found, regarding sand dunes in Michigan, I found this quote: “It should be noted that relatively few bedrock outcrops occur in Michigan. Instead, glacial drift almost completely covers the State. Therefore, one can safely assume that sand for the dunes comes from the drift”.(Michigan Sand Dunes article pdf) As sand dunes are usually considered to be found in desert areas, the sand dunes in Michigan are different. The fact that the Michigan shoreline receives a lot of rainfall helps to maintain and stabilize the dunes. It is this environment that allows for diverse plant life which encourages every major type of land dwelling animal in Michigan, which can also be found in the dunes. Also, as the dunes are located on the migratory flyway, you will find a diverse ecology of birds and other wildlife here.

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          Leelanau County Michigan was first inhabited by Native Americans prior to French and English settlements. Leelanau County was specifically home to the Anishinaabe, which is the name given to the three tribes who called this area their home. The Ottawa, Ojibwe and Potawatomi are the three tribes who lived here prior to colonization. These peoples were all nomadic, but had semi-permanent residences set up in what is current day Omena Point, Leland and a high bluff just north of what is now called Peterson Park. Chief Onominese, was the chief of the tribe that resided in current day Leland, and if you go there today, you will see his name on many geographical markers, including their cemetery which still remains there although it would be very easy to miss as the undergrowth has claimed much of the markers and many of the sites are not marked. These tribes of the Ottawa and Chippewa and Potawatomi make up what is called the Three Fires Confederacy. These tribes moved here from the Eastern Coast of Turtle Island and settled in this area after their spiritual leader told them to travel west until they found food growing on the water. They traveled until they found rice growing on the water and they knew they were home. These tribes became great traders and had trade routes as far west as the Rocky Mountains, east to the Atlantic Ocean, north to Northern Canada and south to the Gulf of Mexico. When French and English settlers first came to the area, they sought them as trading partners. Sadly, as we know, over time the white settlers began to want and fight over the native peoples lands and many treaties ensued. Each treaty resulted in fewer rights for the native peoples and eventually one treaty, according to the white men, dissolved their rights as a tribe altogether. However, these tribes did not give up, they continued to stay in their land and fight for their rights as a people. In 1934, under the leadership of Ben Peshaba the tribe applied for tribal recognition, but were denied. The tribe persisted, numerous times and eventually, in 1980, the tribe was re-recognized by the federal U.S. government as the Grand Traverse band of Ottawa and Chippewa Indians. The tribe has drafted a constitution and formed their own government, and today Peshawbestown can be found in Leelanlau County. The tribe own and operate several businesses here including the Leelanau Sands Casino & Lodge. I am glad to know that these peoples still have a chance to live in their original lands and can take ownership and pride in their accomplishments. One story I have always liked is regarding how the Sleeping Bear Dunes got their name, and it is from an old Chippewa Indian legend. The story, although varies a little bit, goes something like this, ‘a mother bear and her cubs were fleeing from a fire on the shore of the Wisconsin coast and needed to get across the big water to the other side. They set out on their journey and as it was rough and it was a long way, the mother finally reached the other side and collapsed when she got to solid land. She looked back and saw that her 2 cubs had not made it, they were just off the shore a little ways. The mother bear is now the Sleeping Bear Dune and her two cubs are the North and South Manitou Islands’.

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Satellite view of Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore in northwest Michigan. Image: NASA’s Earth Observatory

          If you ever go to this area of Leelanlau County Michigan, northwest of Traverse City, you will be able to tell right away that it is special. The area is full of nature and natural areas and the locals have made a concerted effort to keep commerce out as much as possible. Scenery, hiking, fishing, wineries and farmers markets and just enjoying the land around you are the main attractions here. In 1988, the Leelanau Conservancy was formed and was one of the first in the U.S. to be accredited through the Land Trust Accreditation Commission. The conservancy has permanently preserved 15,000 acres and established 26 natural areas, like the Whaleback Natural Area which I visited in June 2020. 

          When visiting these natural areas, and specifically the Whaleback trail that I visited in June, I like to imagine what it would have been like before the white settlers moved in and invaded this territory. I imagine it was much the same, as the dunes were still there, but I envision seeing hunters quietly and peacefully walking through the land. Good stewards of the Earth, these people did not take more than they needed and appreciated the beauty. In one article I read, some of the first settlers here helped establish a school with the indians and it was written by the son of the teacher: "But Old Lake Michigan was on one side of us and the house was located on the edge of the bank, which was nearly two hundred feet above the water and the bank was nearly perpendicular. Of all the wild places to try to exist, I don't believe a worse one could be found." Whereas, this writing appears to be written in disdain, the native americans who lived there were very secure in their settlement and had lived here for generations quite contentedly. I think that the early American settlers did not appreciate the land for its natural qualities and resources. I would give anything to be able to go back to that time and share this land with the original inhabitants and learn their ways. I would want to ask how they knew when it was time to move south to their winter location and when did they decide to move back? I would also like to ask what designated their different tribes, where they distant relatives and families that chose to live close to each other and share in hunting grounds and resources? 

          I am so thankful for this day, that we chose to hike at this location even in the rain and saw it in the weather conditions that we did because it was so profound that it stayed with me in a very deep, personal way. If I close my eyes, I can feel the sensations of the rain and the wind on my face...it was very peaceful and I am thankful to the Leelanau Conservancy that has preserved this natural area to be enjoyed by others for as long as possible.

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My kids and I, on our hike

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